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The conversion process will take any where from 80-100 hours to complete depending on your application and skill level. The majority of the work is mechanical and will require little fabrication on your side, our kits are designed to be as simple as possible to install. When installing any and all parts, ALWAYS use loctite on nuts and bolts!
Engine Mounts: We highly recommend welding these to the frame, they mount in the same basic spot as your original Jeep mounts. First assemble your driveline (engine, transmission, and transfer case) Mount transfer case to original crossmember and bolt to frame, align engine with frame and center it. Keep the top mount at the end of threads on joystick, this will help absorb some of the vibration. 'C’ Clamp mounts in to check the hood closes, exhaust fits, etc, then mark and weld in the mounts. These are adjustable so exact location is not critical. Place the jam nut on the joystick first to prevent the engine from vibrating down. Lock tight all nuts and bolts! We recommend tack welding the nuts in place as they have been know to vibrate down!
Engine Mount Placement: We recomend having the body installed on the frame before welding in the engine mounts. However, several customer's have called in looking for measurements. Whereas we cannot guarantee exact placement we have some basic measurement for you;
CJ: keep the mount within 4" in front of the front body mount(at the firewall)
from the highest point of the frame (over the front axle) the top of the engine needs to be no higher then 19.5" or 20.5 if running a 1" body lift
YJ: same as above but the top of the engine can be 22" from the highest frame point or 23" if running a 1" body lift
TJ: again, same placement as above but the top of the engine should be 20.5" or 21.5"
JK: we do not currently have measurements for the JK
Adapters and Bell Housings: Below are the main 4 adapters used in these conversion. You can download instructions here. There are others as well, contact us for more info.
Clutch: The clutch assembly will depend on several variances. You will use the flywheel from the 4BT, the flyweel you have will decide the rest of the parts you will need. The flywheel will be either a Ford or GM style and it may be thin (standard) or thick (heavy duty). The clutch and pressure plate will be either a GM or Ford, choose a heavy duty clutch that fits your application! The throwout bearing and sleeve will depend on the thickness of the flywheel and the pilot bearing depends on the diameter of the transmission input shaft and size of the flywheel's center hole. All of these can vary and it is difficult to know what you need until you have all the parts in front of you. If your Jeep has an original internal slave cylinder, you will need to convert it to an external. Otherwise the slave cylinder, master cylinder, throwout lever, clutch rod and pedal assembly will reman what came on the Jeep. When you are ready to install the clutch assembly, grab a tape measure and give us a call we will be happy to assist in getting you the proper parts.
Vacuum Pump: Connect the 90 degree fitting and hose to the vacuum pump, then attach pump to block. Then attach power steering pump to vacuum pump and connect hose and straight fitting to oil outlet on block. Always use loc-tite and teflon tape.
Crankshaft Exciter: Locate the existing sensor in the bell housing, cut and extend the sensor wires to reach the front of the 4BT. Slide the ring over the 4BT crank pulley and weld in place. Mount the bracket (see pic) to the block and attach the sensor.
Camshaft Sensor: Locate the existing sensor, cut and extend the wires to reach the front of the 4BT. Bolt the bracket to the block and the ring disc to the pulley (see pic), you may need to cut a slit in the sensor housing for the ring to pass through, bolt the sensor to the bracket and plug it in.
A/C Compressor: This is a faily involved kit to install, click here to open a pdf file of the instructions for easier printing.
YJ/TJ/JK Fuel Tank Conversion: This system utilizes the electric Jeep fuel pump. Connect the stock 5/16" fuel supply line to the 4BT mechanical fuel pump, teeing in a brass 'T' fitting 6" before the pump. From that 'T' connect a small piece of hose to a second 'T', attach the return line from the injectors to the 2nd 'T' and run the metal return line back to the tank. Insert the check valve along the way and finally add the last 'T' fitting (3/4" for 1997-02 or 5/16" for 2003-12) and connect to the fuel tank fill vent. See diagram
Wiring: Most of the electrical work is removing wires and adding length to a couple. A CJ7 & early YJ conversions require almost no change. On a YJ with a 4.2 engine you will use the yellow wire from the fuse box to power the injection pump.
Choose the appropriate link to view instructions.
Cruise Control: If your Jeep TJ had cruise control you need to leave the TPS plugged into the harness and make a bracket to mount it somewhere and turn it so it reads 1 volt. JK owners will no longer have cruise control.
Exhaust: Installed as any other type of exhaust, be sure to mount securely and use rubber hangers to absorb the vibration
Lift Kits: Please follow instruction included with your choice of kit
Gearing: We recommend having gearing swaps done by a professional